INSTRUCTIONS & FAQ

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General questions:

  • Pony Down "safe tune turbo chip" install
    79-93 s2/s3 single turbo headers, crossover, and downpipe install
    79-93 s2 single turbo kit install - Lost during server transfer!
  • 79-93 "b series" single turbo kit install
  • 79-93 s2 twin turbo kit install - Lost during server transfer!
    79-93 s2/s3 headers and downpipe
  • Changing a turbo exhaust housing
  • Tial tech page - wastegates
  • Tial tech page - blow off valves
  • Calculate hp for your car from 1/4 mile times


  • Where are the pony down products made?
    A. In Michigan
     
  • What type of payments do we accept?
    A. Credit Card (through Pay Pal), Pay Pal, Money Order, or Personal Check
     
  • What engine's do we make part for?
    A. 302 (8.2 deck), 351 (9.5 deck)

    What header flange do I need?
    A. 
    To see what bolt pattern you have with the side to side bolt pattern, measure across the exhaust port from  the center of the bolt hole to center of bolt hole. With that measurement you can make sure your ordering the correct flange for your order. We offer the following bolt patterns for sbf heads...

    - Fits -
     ---  2" stock  ---  gt40, edelbrock performer, afr 165/185 etc...
     --- 3" 1487 wide bolt pattern  ---  afr, dart, canfield, etc...
     --- 2.75" trick flow  --- trick flow high port, R
     --- High Port diagonal  --- trick flow high port

     

  • What else is needed to install a pony down turbo header kit?
    A. We use 1/2" flanges so you will want 3/8x1" header bolts with a 5/16 or 3/8 wrench head on them. After years of gasket failures we went to high temp silicone and have never looked back.
     
  • How do I connect my downpipe to my cat back exhaust?
    A. The easiest answer to that is buy our y-pipe. Its designed to replace your h-pipe and connect the downpipe to the cat back exhaust. Your other option is to take it to a exhaust shop and have them do something for you.

     
  • Do I need a chip or custom tune once I put a turbo kit on?
    A. 
    Yes and No. In the past we did some tweaks keep the car running safe at wot, But that sacrificed some of the drivability at start up and part throttle and cruising. We now offer a Pony Down "safe tune turbo chip" to give you the best of everything.
     
  • What's the difference between the "b" series kits and the original design kits?
    A. There is 2 main things. One is just the look of where the turbo sits. Second is the "b" series kit requires 3-4 areas that need to be trimmed or cut on the car. The Original design just needs trimming to the drivers side sway bar mount.
     
  • Auto trans vs a stick trans
    A. A stick trans is really fun on the street but for the 1/4 mile you can't beat a auto.
     
  • What are some of the factory block horse power limits?
    A. 450hp-600hp stock short block (low rpm's shifts) 
     
  • What's a good combo for a stock engine?

    Pony Down Items
    -Stage 2 single turbo kit
    -70/.68 turbo
    -Pony Down "Safe tune Turbo chip"
    -y-pipe

    Engine Upgrades
    -36# injectors
    -c&l maf
    -255 in tank fuel pump
    -160* or 180* thermostat
    -arp head bolts
    -mls head gaskets
    -spark plugs (ex. autolite 3924 gapped at .30-.35)

    Automatic Trans Upgrades
    -trans cooler
    -shift kit

    Manual Trans Upgrades
    -upgraded Clutch (ex. center force, ford racing...)
    -steel bearing retainer

    Rear End
    -3.27 rear end gear

     
  • What's a good combo for a heads, intake and cam with a stock short block?

    Pony Down Items
    -Stage 2 or stage 3 single turbo kit
    -70/.68 or 70/.81 turbo or bigger depending on your goals 
    -Pony Down "Safe tune Turbo chip"
    -y-pipe

    Engine Upgrades
    -42# or 60# injectors
    -c&l maf or pmas/pro-m
    -255 in tank fuel pump with inline pump or aeromotive a1000
    -160* or 180* thermostat
    -bigger radiator
    -arp head bolts or head studs
    -mls head gaskets
    -spark plugs (ex. autolite 3924 gapped at .30-.35)
    - holley intake
    -edelbrock, ford racing, afr, or trick flow heads
    -ford racing f-303 cam
    -1.6 roller rockers
    -new double roller timing chain
    -adjustable fuel pressure regulator
    -(450 plus HP) aftermarket fuel rails and lines

    Automatic Trans Upgrades
    -trans cooler
    -shift kit or valve body
    -torque converter
    -hardened input shaft


    Manual Trans Upgrades
    -upgraded Clutch (ex. center force, ford racing...)
    -steel bearing retainer
    -aftermarket shifter

    Rear End
    -3.27 rear end gear (street tire or 26" tall tire)
    -3.55 28" tall tire

     

  • What mods should I do to a stock aod transmission?
    A. ok - shift kit
    A. better - shift kit or valve body, converter, and hardened input shaft
    A. better plus - all of the "better" package plus a 4r70w swap
     
  • What should I do to my stock t5 transmission?
    A. centerforce clutch (choose model by hp level) & steel bearing retainer, & shifter
     
  • What rear end gear should I run?
    A. 3.27 gear for a street tire or 26" tall tire& a 3.55 gear for a 28" tall tire
     
  • What does XXX part do on a turbo kit?
    A. A quick run down is.....
    Turbo - Is your unit that creates your boost. It is powered by the exhaust gasses from the motor
    Wastegate - This is what controls how much boost the turbo will produce
    Blow off Valve - This will blow off boost in the piping when the throttle is closed
    Manual boost Controller (MBC)- This will allow you to increase boost over the wastegate spring pressure
     
  • How much horsepower will Imake with a stage 2 single turbo kit? These figures are based on a smooth running engine with stock compression

    A. stock engine @ 9psi (362hp / 404trq)
    A. 300hp engine @ 9psi (483hp / 523trq)
    A. 350hp engine @ 9psi (564hp / 604trq)
    A. 400hp engine @ 9psi (644hp / 688trq)

    A. stock engine @ 14psi (439hp / 479trq)
    A. 300hp engine @ 14psi (585hp / 626trq)
    A. 350hp engine @14psi (683hp / 723trq)
    A. 400hp engine @ 14psi (780hp / 823trq)
     
  • Locked timing vs Non locked timing
    A. locked timing is where you pull the timing spout out and set the timing to lets say 18* and leave it just like that. You do not put the spout back in. You can set it to more than 18* but that's just a starting point. This is a good way of running at the track under wot, but it sucks on the street. Your start up will be rough and your part throttle will be rough.
     

Troubleshooting: New updated coming soon.

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